Introducing the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green

Introducing the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green

The green dial trend of 2021 seems to have gone as quickly as it arrived. Now we are seeing some brands jump on the “Tiffany blue” bandwagon in 2022, but Moser seems to have not gotten the memo. No matter. Moser has always marched to the beat of its own drum anyway. In 2021, its green dial contribution took the form of a fumé (smoke) dial color called Blue Lagoon in the Pioneer Centre Seconds Mega Cool (you just can’t beat Moser’s naming conventions).

This year, for the latest addition to the Endeavour Collection, Moser is sticking with green, with the more literally named Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green. The case is the familiar 40mm sculpted block of highly polished stainless steel, with a svelte concave side profile that is the most voluptuous Moser makes. And yet this beauty of a case plays sidekick to the main attraction underneath the sapphire crystal of every Endeavour — the stripped-down dial. The fumé dial effect is synonymous with Moser and is often expressed as a painted sunburst brushed finish that requires more than 200 steps to achieve. This new Endeavour steers slightly away from that norm with a dial in “grand feu’’ enamel and a textured surface that mimics the dappled effect of hand-hammered gold.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green
Moser sticks with a green dial for their latest 2022 Endeavour and it's a beauty.

While Moser cannot claim to be the first to use enamel with a dusky ombré (shadow) effect (that honor goes to anOrdain in 2019, discovered serendipitously), it achieves this new Lime Green colorway to great effect through the mastery of age-old enameling techniques but with a slight twist. The traditional method of creating an enamel dial of a single color is by applying colored enamel powder to a metal disc, either by sieving the powder over it or mixing it with water and brushing it on evenly. The dial is then fired in a kiln to a temperature of between 800°C to 1200°C, which melts the enamel, bonding it to the metal surface. The enamel is allowed to cool, after which it is sanded smooth to remove imperfections before the next layer of enamel is applied. The process of firing, cooling and sanding is repeated for every layer of enamel required, and it is this painstaking, laborious technique that gives enamel dials their deep, milky rich luster and completely even consistency that never fades with time. The term “grand feu” or “great fire” comes from the fact that the dials will burst into flames upon entering the kiln, burning off the alcohol that is sprayed on them. The alcohol spray ensures the enamel powder adheres to the metal disk when being transferred from workbench to kiln.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green
Enamel is completely inert and unflappable towards the ageing effects of time. Steer clear if you like your dials to patina.

For this new dial, Moser uses a gold disk, instead of the usual copper, as the base that has the hand-hammered pattern pressed onto it. A master enameler crushes three different colored enamel pigments separately into fine powders before applying them one by one to achieve the shadow effect. The application process takes approximately one hour and requires great care in order for the colors to coalesce evenly in the kiln without producing unsightly blotches. Twelve firings are necessary to produce a translucent glass-like finish that allows the hammered pattern and colored gradient effect to shine through.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green
If there are even any imperfections within the 12 firing stages, the dial will crack and the process has to be repeated from the beginning. In this age of instant gratification, very few possess the aptitude to become enamel craftsmen.
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green
The purple seconds hand is a unique identifier for a watchmaking innovation that's beating inside.

The exceptional finish is unsullied by any form of branding or time-telling dial furniture, save for the three hands. The polished leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, sensuous in their form, do a good job of telling the time of day without drawing too much attention away from the dial. But it is the purple seconds hand that has a deeper story to tell, apart from being a perfect complement to the green dial according to basic color theory. Moser watches with a purple seconds hand use the brand’s proprietary Straumann Double Hairspring, manufactured by sister company Precision Engineering AG. The Straumann Double Hairspring first debuted in 2009 and is an ingenious and absolutely elegant solution to counteract the effects of gravity on the balance. Two hairsprings, each with a Breguet overcoil, are stacked one atop the other in a 180° diametrically opposed orientation. They are pinned to the balance staff at one end and to two separate studs positioned directly opposite one another. As they vibrate in opposing directions, the effect of gravity pulling on any one point of one hairspring coil, especially when the watch is in the vertical positions, is effectively cancelled out by the vibration of the other coil. Despite the seeming simplicity of the innovation, the cost of constructing and regulating the double hairspring costs as much as making a tourbillon (imagine that!), according to Moser’s CEO Edouard Meylan in a 2015 interview with WatchTime. Understandably, the double hairspring is used sparingly and only in certain special pieces.

The rest of the caliber HMC 200, Moser’s workhorse movement, if you could call it that, is an absolute beauty. The Straumann Double Hairspring swings a free-sprung balance wheel with four timing weights, secured by a balance bridge shaped of gentle curves that brings to mind a coiffed handlebar moustache. The rest of the movement bridges are decorated with Moser stripes, a variation on Côte de Genève, with alternating thin bands at the crest and thick bands at the trough of the wave. Bridge bevels are diamond polished to achieve a distortion-free reflection at the edges. The H. Moser hallmark is engraved on the oscillating weight, which is part of a bi-directional pawl winding system. Pawl winding automatic systems, while they take up more movement real estate, are generally considered to be superior to more common reverser wheel systems. The oscillating weight is not connected directly to the automatic winding wheel train, and the system is therefore more resistant to shocks. The movement can also run for no less than three days on a full wind, which is fast becoming an industry norm. When you have a dial that is so “less is more”, it is design touches like these on the rear side that prove Moser spared no expense in designing their simple three-hand watch.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green
A cut-out in the rose gold oscillating weight creates an unobstructed view of the incredibly-finished movement.
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green
Gentlemen with moustaches are just cooler to be honest and the HMC 200 wears its own proudly over the balance wheel with the Straumann Double Hairspring.


It would not be overstating a fact by saying that H. Moser & Cie should be credited with reviving the use of the fumé dial effect in contemporary watchmaking. In the last eight years, it has become the core of the brand’s design language that is so instantly identifiable — like a calling card every other watch brand wished they had. As CEO Edouard Meylan once put it, at the launch of the first Endeavour Centre Seconds without logo or indices, “When our customers buy an H. Moser, they are looking for a manufacture watch with a distinctive design created by real craftsmen. We place the emphasis on the product, not on the logo or marketing.”

This new hammered texture fumé enamel dial may seem more mellow on the surface than its livelier painted cousins, but the manufacturing process is no less intensive, and it is no coincidence that Moser decided to bless this new Endeavour with its special double hairspring. It can be seen as an evolution of Meylan’s original bold statement and of the original fumé design. Will we eventually see more intricate enamel techniques such as champlevé or cloisonné being employed in Endeavour dials? That might seem like a departure from the Endeavour’s minimalist bent, but trust Moser to find a way that’s fun and doesn’t take itself too seriously.

Creating a simple three-hand watch is way more challenging than meets the eye. A simplicity of design has no room to hide any flaws, and because every element of this watch strives for perfection as its name suggests, it remains a strong contender to be the ultimate three-hander.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green
A dial design that's simple and yet distinctly Moser.
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green
Could this be your ultimate three-hand watch?

Tech Specs

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green, Ref: 1200-1233

Movement: Self-winding caliber HMC 200; minimum 3-day power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case: 40mm x 11.2mm; stainless steel; sapphire crystal; see-through caseback
Dial: Lime Green fumé with hammered texture; “Grand Feu” enamel
Strap: Hand-stitched gray kudu leather; stainless steel pin buckle
Price: TBC
Availability: TBC