Whether you believe that Brexit was the best thing that ever happened to the UK, releasing the shackles of European betrothment, or you are adamant that it left the UK the poorer party in the Euro divorce, there can be no arguing that the British watchmaking industry is in anything but rude health. Over the past years, more and more independently run watch brands have blossomed to cater to the incredible surge in demand for watches both in Blighty and across the entire globe. We talk to the leaders of four very different UK-based brands about the companies that they run and take a look at a selection of the watches that they offer, both past and present.

Studio Underd0g

“Something that I’ve personally found quite refreshing is the comradery between British brands in the horological space. Instead of trying to compete with each other, I’ve personally found that many brand owners are happy to share insights and support other business wherever they can.”

– Richard Benc, Founder of Studio Underd0g

With one of the hottest trends in the watch market currently being micro‑brands, there has been a rise in cool interesting watches that punch above their weight in a dense horological marketplace. No micro‑brand has made as colorful and playful a splash as Studio Underd0g with collections such as Watermel0n and Mint Ch0c Chip. Founder Richard Benc has a background in corporate design, and with Studio Underd0g, he’s enjoyed playing around with his own ideas for a change.

Tell us about your first watch.

Back in 2003 when I was around 10 years old, I somehow convinced my parents to buy me a green Baby-G (by G-Shock). I can vividly recall being in school and looking at the digital display on my comically oversized watch, counting down the minutes until break- time, so I could head outside and play marbles or trade Pokémon cards with my friends!

Was this the moment you knew that you might one day start a watch brand?

The founding of Studio Underd0g was a bit of an accident, if I’m being honest. When the UK was put into lockdown, I found myself with ample free time (since the pubs were shut) so I started to tinker around with some designs that were on my mind and posted a few concept renders/ visuals online. The response I got from the community was overwhelmingly positive, which motivated me to continue to develop my ideas. In essence, Studio Underd0g was a passion project in that I was designing watches for myself and didn’t expect my approach to resonate with anyone else. I wish I could say that this was a strategic decision based on unwavering self-confidence, but the truth is that it didn’t cross my mind that Studio Underd0g would be something that I’d bring to market. I believe that this mindset was one of the core reasons for the success of the brand, as I didn’t set out with any commercial objectives, meaning my design decisions were unrestrained. I launched Studio Underd0g in March 2021.

How have you structured the business?

We are still in our early days, having only introduced Studio Underd0g to the world in March 2021. I’m a “one-man-brand” and operate this new business out of my small London flat, so my living room is also my studio, my office and my warehouse — much to the displeasure of my girlfriend!

What was the biggest challenge you faced when setting the brand up?

The biggest challenge in the earliest stages of setting up a brand was trying to develop a novel design, without it coming across as a gimmick. This is a fine line to tread. I want my watches to be taken seriously as mechanical timepieces, while also representing something slightly silly. Seriously un-serious is how I like to put it.

What has been your recipe for success so far?

Patience and flexibility are key. 2021 has shown everyone that sometimes no amount of planning can prepare you for what may come. I’ve learned that being agile as a business and being able to adapt quickly is very important.

What are you most proud of in Studio Underd0g’s short journey?

Being able to bring a product to market that has been so wonderfully received by the enthusiast community is something that I’m incredibly proud of. I love when customers send me photos of their watch collection, and amongst the Swiss heavy-hitters sits a vibrant Studio Underd0g watch.

How would you describe the Studio Underd0g house style?

The juxtaposition of a vintage silhouette with a refreshingly modern dial is what makes my watches unique. I want my watches to feel somewhat familiar, but at the same time be unlike anything else on the market.

From where do you draw inspiration?

In the horological space, I’m inspired by Max Büsser at MB&F and his incredible unique approach to watchmaking. His creations are so original that he doesn’t even classify them as watches. Instead, they are machines. This limitless way of thinking is something that I’d love to emulate in my own way.

What is your view of the current watch market?

The horological landscape has changed dramatically in the last five years. In around 2016, the big worry was that the Apple Watch would cause the downfall of the industry as we knew it, then a few years later with the collapse of Baselworld and other such shows, similar questions about the future of the entire industry were raised. Despite these types of concerns, the market is alive and as healthy as it’s ever been, in my opinion.

Are British watch brands important on the global stage?

At one point in time, the British horological industry was arguably the largest in the world, renowned for its innovative contributions to watchmaking. While the British industry has certainly declined over the centuries, we’ve seen a revival in recent years, with Mike France [CEO] of Christopher Ward describing it best: “The resurgence in British horology has been referred to as a ‘quiet renaissance.’”

The 2021 Bellwether Report on the British Horological Industry confirmed this and highlighted that many British watch and clock businesses are young, which I believe will help to bring a fresh perspective to watchmaking as a whole. I’m looking forward to seeing British innovation playing its part in this industry in years to come.