Daniel Roth
Introducing the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
Daniel Roth
Introducing the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
Originally produced in all three colours of gold as well as platinum, the Double-Face Tourbillon ref. 187 was a watch that encapsulated Roth’s pursuit of maintaining a sense of continuity from his time at Breguet while also striving for artistic progression. It incorporated many of the hallmarks he had laid out for Breguet such as the Clous de Paris guilloche pattern, blued hands, an offset dial framed by a metallic, circular-grained chapter ring and a one-minute tourbillon at six o’clock. In fact, the movement was the same Lemania tourbillon movement developed by Roth himself back then at Breguet but was reworked to accommodate his unusual double-ellipse case, incorporate a power reserve and calendar indication on the back of the watch and finished to an even higher degree with a rounded, black polished tourbillon bridge. And while the Breguet ref. 3350 he created featured a three-arm seconds indicator mounted on the tourbillon cage that swept across a single 20 seconds scale, the Double-Face Tourbillon ref. 187 had three seconds arms of varying lengths that swept over three corresponding scales as the tourbillon rotates. To accommodate the longest arm, a tiny groove had to be made to the inner wall of the case to allow it to pass through. It appears that Roth was particularly interested in designing a tourbillon that could also function as a clear and precise seconds indicator, as this continues today in his own Jean Daniel Nicolas two-minute tourbillon.
The dimensions of the case are identical to the original at 38.6mm by 35.5mm but is slimmer at just 9.2mm, compared to 11mm before. This is because the Tourbillon Souscription only has a single face, doing away with the power reserve and calendar indications on the back of the watch.
Although seemingly minor, the change of typeface significantly impacts the overall aesthetic of the watch. Unlike the original, which utilized a combination of serif typefaces for the Roman and Arabic numerals, brand name, and serial number, the Tourbillon Souscription employs a sans-serif typeface, lending it a more contemporary and up-to-date look.
The watch will be sold on subscription system where a deposit will be paid upon order confirmation and the rest upon delivery in early 2024.
Tech Specs
Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
Movement: Hand-wound DR001 Calibre, power reserve of 80 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds; tourbillon
Case: 38.6mm x 35.5mm x 9.2mm; 18K yellow gold 3N; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: 18k Yellow gold 3N with Clous de Paris guilloche
Strap: Brown calfskin leather with 18k yellow gold tang-type buckle
Availability: At select retail partners; limited to 20 pieces
Price: CHF140,000