Patek Philippe
1925: Patek Philippe 97975, the World’s First Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch
Patek Philippe
1925: Patek Philippe 97975, the World’s First Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch
Patek’s very first perpetual calendar wristwatch dates back to 1925. But in reality, the movement for this watch goes even further back to 1898, when the maison made the movement to be housed in a women’s pendant watch. It is intriguing to imagine their thinking at the time. That this extraordinary complication capable of keeping time, date, day, month, year and even moon phase would appeal to a very specific female client.
The watch went unsold and a quarter century later, this exceptional instantaneous perpetual calendar movement designated No. 97975 was re-cased in a beautiful yellow-gold wristwatch replete with hunter back and a large fluted crown. The 34.4mm-diameter case (case No. 22 033) also featured stunning hand-engraved lugs, a tradition still associated with Patek to this day.
The No. 97975 movement was made from a Victorin Piguet ébauche with a straight-line lever escapement, compensating balance and a Breguet overcoil hairspring. Most impressively, the movement had the rare complexity of an instantaneous perpetual calendar indications.
It is amazing to think that the 97975 was a creation of 1925. It would well over 15 years until Patek would produce their first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, the legendary 1518.
For everything you want to know about Patek Philippe perpetual calendars, see ‘The Entire History of Patek Philippe’s Perpetual Calendars’ by Wei Koh, here.