To me, this represents a kind of transitional watch for him. In the context of the era, many brands were enchanted by BNB. This was a high complications manufacture created by three ex-Patek Philippe high complications specialists \u2014 Mathias Buttet, Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. The latter two would later splinter off to create La Fabrique du Temps, which would eventually be purchased by LVMH and is today the in- house LV watch manufacture for high complications. Starting in 2004 with just four people, by 2008, BNB boasted 187 employees and was creating a huge array of ultra technical movements, from triple-axis tourbillons to totally novel and original concepts such as that expressed by the Quenttin. The movement for this juggernaut boasted a completely unheard-of architecture. It took seven full-sized mainspring barrels and arranged them side by side. Together, it fed a total of 31 days of power reserve to the watch\u2019s vertical tourbillon.<\/p>\n
But then in 2009, resulting from the financial crisis, BNB went bankrupt. This came about from the abrupt end of purchases for the wild, hyper expensive, type of independent watchmaking BNB was fueling for brands like HD3, Concord and Franc Vila. Mathias Buttet became Hublot\u2019s in-house high comp specialist, brought there by the legendary Jean-Claude Biver. Amusingly, that same seven- barrel vertical tourbillon concept is today the basis for Hublot\u2019s MP-05. But what is clear about the Quenttin is that Jacob was interested in pushing the horological envelope to the furthest edge.<\/p>\n
He explains, \u201cIt was an incredible moment to see the type of creativity that was possible with modern watchmaking, to go beyond the traditional complications of the perpetual calendar, tourbillon and minute repeater. The idea of the Quenttin was a watch that you wouldn\u2019t have to wind for an entire month. That was to me something remarkable. Also, the architecture of the movement was something impressive because it reminded me of the engine of a supercar. At the same time, the lesson I learned from the Quenttin was that, in the future, I wanted to make these kinds of super complications but in a way that was personally meaningful to me. Even if I was to work with the best high complications specialists, the movements had to be exclusive to me.\u201d<\/p>\n
The Horological Journey Begins: Epic SF24<\/b><\/h1>\n
So, Jacob began to do his research and he scoured the Swiss horological landscape for a truly brilliant young voice. During this time, he was raising his family with three sons, David, Benjamin and Joey. Says Benjamin, \u201cHe was a great dad and someone who always wanted to spend time with us. He really pushed us to play sports. For me, that was basketball and, because of my dad, tennis as well. We always spend time together as a family, and I remember even as a boy around this time, my dad talking about watches. He was so excited because he had met someone that could help him realize what he had in his mind.\u201d What Jacob had in mind, specifically, was the 2013 Epic SF24, which I have to say is an absolutely brilliant watch. To me, it is the clear articulation of Jacob\u2019s intent to create a watch that, while visually dynamic, was also something deeply horological and incredibly functional.<\/div><\/div><\/div>
Jacob and Co.'s Epic SF 24 Limited Edition Titan<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>
So, what is the SF24? It is a multiple time zone watch like no other. Launched in 2013, the SF24 was the perfect combination of ease of use, maximum visibility and, well, for lack of a better word, coolness. The \u201cSF\u201d stands for split flaps, which were used in huge display boards in airports and in train stations. Says Jacob, \u201cWhen I was a kid, we went to the airport or to the train station, and we were fascinated by the names of the different cities that jumped instantaneously on these boards.\u201d The SF24 is almost two watches grafted together. The lower part is a traditional round case attached at the top to a horizontally displayed sapphire cylinder that shows 24 cities, each representing one of the earth\u2019s time zones and corresponding time. The key innovation of this watch is that it allows you to jump from one city to the next with the mere push of a button at the left. On the right through a clear sapphire window, you can see the cam triggering the changeover. Local time is, of course, displayed on the hands on the main dial. That has a quick-set feature where you can advance just the hour without affecting the running of the seconds.<\/p>\n
A New Icon is Born: Astronomia<\/b><\/h1>\n
Not content with this first creation, it would be Jacob\u2019s next project that would yield what I believe is the most significant timepiece of the modern era. Says Jacob, \u201cI knew that watches were evolving, and I wanted to create something that was totally unique. I wanted something related to space, something that was completely three- dimensional and something with a case that was totally open so that you could see the movement from every angle.\u201d<\/div><\/div><\/div>
Jacob and Co. Astronomia Tourbillon<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>
The Astronomia essentially combined two types of watches that emerged from the late 20th century and the early part of the new millennium. The first was the type of watch initiated by timepieces like the Freak and eventually, Piaget\u2019s Tourbillon Relatif that took the oscillator from the back of the movement and made it rotate around the dial, often as part of the time-telling indications. The second type of watch is the Planetarium such as the Ulysse Nardin Planetarium Copernicus and several models of the wristwatches made by Christian van der Klaauw.<\/p>\n
What Jacob did was to essentially unite these two types of watches to create an altogether new, unique and totally animated method of representing time. I would define the Astronomia not so much as a traditional timepiece but more a poetic work of kinetic sculpture that tells time. In many ways, it is an extension of Swiss artist Jean Tinguely\u2019s famous \u201cMetamatic\u201d of kinetic art sculptures united with time-telling innovation. As I described in the opening paragraph of this story, to peer into the microcosm of the Astronomia for the first time is an awe-inspiring moment. It is based on a four-arm carriage that completes a full clockwise revolution each 20 minutes. It features a triple-axis gravitational tourbillon with 20-minute, five- minute and 60-second rotations of each axis, a floating dial that shows hours and minutes and is always oriented with 12 o\u2019clock in the correct place despite its position on the dial, a 288-faceted Jacob-cut diamond and a magnesium globe that both rotate once on their own axis at 60 seconds.<\/div><\/div><\/div>