{"id":102162,"date":"2019-06-27T19:00:21","date_gmt":"2019-06-27T11:00:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.revolution.watch\/?p=102162"},"modified":"2024-04-17T07:10:00","modified_gmt":"2024-04-16T23:10:00","slug":"fantasy-hours-andrew-grimas-about-time-for-omega","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/revolutionwatch.com\/fantasy-hours-andrew-grimas-about-time-for-omega\/","title":{"rendered":"Fantasy Hours: Andrew Grima\u2019s About Time for Omega"},"content":{"rendered":"

As the 1960s moved over into the 1970s, one of the greatest jewelry designers of all time was secured by Omega to design 55 of the most extraordinary timepieces ever created. The result was the unsurpassed and much-coveted About Time series. <\/p>\n

In 1969, Omega commissioned London-based artist jeweler Andrew Grima to design a collection of watches, About Time, that\u00a0even today remain unsurpassed for their ingenuity, audacity\u00a0and powerful, sculptural design. Though Mr Grima was already acknowledged as a maverick of modern jewelry design, and\u00a0was arguably the most innovative designer of his generation with\u00a0a wildly\u00a0fashionable shop at No. 80 Jermyn Street and a Royal\u00a0Warrant, he\u00a0had never previously designed a watch. As the jeweler to\u00a0The Queen,\u00a0Princess Margaret and Jackie O said: \u201cIf\u00a0you\u00a0need to\u00a0know the\u00a0time, you ask your chauffeur.\u201d
\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

The Elegance watch is a robust, stepped and line-engraved, yellow-gold bracelet with a doorstep of a smoky quartz sitting proud at its center. The hands are offset, cleverly putting time in its place on such a handsome jewel. Grima presented Elegance to HRH Princess Anne<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

Grima\u2019s expertise in casting gold is demonstrated in the Beachcomber watch with gemstone face set as a brooch...<\/p><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

...Dispensing with the watch case entirely, Grima floats the stone surrounded by offset diamonds inside a textured yellow-gold, three-dimensional hollowed form reminiscent of driftwood<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

Grima\u2019s expertise in casting gold is demonstrated in the Beachcomber watch with gemstone face set as a brooch. Dispensing with the watch case entirely, Grima floats the stone surrounded by offset diamonds inside a textured yellow-gold, three-dimensional hollowed form reminiscent of driftwood<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

However, Omega\u2019s Director of Production Robert Forster had the foresight to see that Andrew Grima\u2019s \u201cwearable works of art\u201d aesthetic\u00a0could revolutionize watch design. Grima\u2019s passion was for mammoth semi-precious stones, often rough and included, set in textured yellow gold with accents of white diamonds. Some of his\u00a0most\u00a0successful pieces were yellow gold casts of the simplest\u00a0forms\u00a0such\u00a0as pencil shavings, leaves or molten lava. He was\u00a0the\u00a0Pablo Picasso\u00a0of jewelry design in the 1960s and 1970s when the great jewel\u00a0houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and\u00a0Boucheron were\u00a0still setting exquisite Old Masters. <\/p>\n

\u201cThe way Andrew worked was to incessantly sketch an endless flow\u00a0of\u00a0ideas on the back of envelopes, scraps of paper, hotel stationery\u00a0or\u00a0bar mats,\u201d says Jojo Grima as she opens folders from her\u00a0late\u00a0husband\u2019s archive showing the great man\u2019s rough sketches for\u00a0About Time. <\/p>\n

Jojo also owns all of the beautifully described illustrations\u00a0of the collection of 55 watches and 31 pieces of jewelry,\u00a0as\u00a0well as some of the wooden models Grima took to Omega\u00a0in\u00a01969. As he told journalist Shirley Conran in 1970: \u201cThe first\u00a0time I went to Switzerland with the experimental wooden models,\u00a0I\u00a0was greeted with dead silence, then a series of polite questions.\u00a0The Swiss are not inclined to go mad.
\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

Volcano, one of Andrew Grima\u2019s original architectural designs for Omega<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

\u201cThey instantly started banging the models against the table to\u00a0check\u00a0practicality. Then, when they saw the first jeweled pieces, they\u00a0were delighted and the wife of the Managing Director actually\u00a0ordered one. As she was the first woman to see them \u2013 and she sees quite a few watches \u2013 they realized that women might actually\u00a0like\u00a0exotic watches.\u201d <\/p>\n

The uniting factor in each of the unique watch designs was the concept of seeing time through gemstones. Each stone dictated the\u00a0design of the watch and, as Anna Motson wrote in her essay \u2018Watches\u00a0as\u00a0Jewels\u2019 that appeared in The Saturday Book in 1971, \u201cThe\u00a0stone\u00a0cutters\u00a0were called on\u00a0to cut precious and semi-precious\u00a0stones in shapes and sizes that\u00a0had\u00a0never before been attempted, and the whole\u00a0project faced Grima\u2019s own craftsmen with\u00a0the highest test of their skill ever\u00a0encountered.\u201d
\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

Utopia was the first design Grima made for About Time. Technically one of the most difficult watches to make, the face is set at an angle, embedded into the finial of an open, line-engraved gold bracelet...<\/p><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

...The smoky quartz face obscures the hands even further. One can see Grima\u2019s influence on Studio 54 jeweller Elsa Peretti\u2019s 1970s jewellery for Tiffany in Utopia<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

One of three gentlemen\u2019s watches in the About Time collection, Enigma is the closest Andrew Grima came to designing a conventional watch...<\/p><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

...This being Grima, the rectangular face is offset, embedded in the thick, bevelled gold bracelet and is cut from a rich green tourmaline<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

<\/p>\n

Standalone<\/h2>\n

\u201cMy father was adamant that the Omega logo did not appear on his watch\u00a0faces and he also refused to entertain numerals,\u201d says Andrew\u00a0and\u00a0Jojo Grima\u2019s daughter Francesca, who today designs under\u00a0her own marque as well as with her mother on contemporary Grima\u00a0pieces. Grima allowed his imagination to run wild designing\u00a0watches as rings, pendants, pocket watches and clips. Even\u00a0the\u00a0pieces worn conventionally as a bracelet were anything but.\u00a0Tornado sets a rutilated quartz almond-shaped glass in a \u201cspringy\u00a0bangle\u201d of polished yellow-gold wire spattered with diamond\u00a0strips. Carr\u00e9 is pure Grima: an aquamarine crystal face set on\u00a0a bracelet of square, textured gold and\u00a0diamond set\u00a0platinum\u00a0blocks\u00a0not\u00a0dissimilar to crazy paving.
\n<\/div><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

Purity of gemstones seemed to be anathema to Grima; thus the value in his work is held in the design rather than the jewel. Grima was inspired by nature\u2019s miracles such as the rutilated (included) quartz that forms the centerpiece of Tornado. The fact that the inclusions obscured the hands of the watch rather appealed to his mischievous nature. Weighing in at half-a-pound, Tornado is the heaviest watch in the collection. The mass of polished yellow gold wire forms a cuff interspersed by \u201cinclusions\u201d of white diamond lines<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

The gold work used to craft the bracelet for Caribbean (bottom watch, below Carr\u00e9) is a bravura display of Grima\u2019s design and his craftsmen\u2019s skill at the bench. The matte yellow-gold \u201cpaving stones\u201d are jointed at varying levels to give depth and movement to the bracelet. Putting such a jigsaw together, so that the bracelet is sinuous and articulated, demands great ingenuity and genius hands. The Carr\u00e9 watch face is a pool of aquamarine blue, subtly suggesting time submerged beneath water<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

The Alpine pocket watch, held in the Grima archive collection, is\u00a0a smoky quartz crystal face surrounded by an engraved yellow-gold\u00a0case\u00a0and suspended from a hand-made chain. At the other end\u00a0of\u00a0the chain is a matching engraved yellow-gold torch that seems\u00a0to\u00a0be inspired by the 1966 surreal spy movie Modesty Blaise starring\u00a0Monica\u00a0Vitti, Terence Stamp and Dirk Bogarde. A personal\u00a0favorite from the collection is Cerini: a vast citrine crystal\u00a0face encased\u00a0in a substantial bracelet crafted from a nest\u00a0of\u00a0yellow-gold matchsticks embedded with baguette-cut\u00a0diamonds. <\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"\"

Also known as Matchstick, the Cerini watch is an example of Grima taking relatively humble forms such as the aforementioned pencil shaving or the piece of lichen that Princess Margaret brought back from the Balmoral estate to be cast in yellow gold. The vivid yellow citrine is a magnificent stone around which Grima weaves a basket of yellow gold matchsticks that sit on top of a bracelet of irregularly interlinked matchstick motifs. Grima famously used white diamonds as accents rather than principal stones<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

It is a tribute to Grima\u2019s creativity that About Time watches rarely come up on the secondary market. Of the original collection, Jojo and Francesca have Teak, Pyramid and Clover as part of their selling collection.\u00a0<\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"\"

Teak is arguably the most personal Omega About Time design because it was the watch Andrew Grima wore until his death in 2007. Jojo Grima now wears the handsome unisex timepiece with smoky quartz face, rectangular beveled gold case and integral chocolate crocodile strap...<\/p><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

...It is the design that Jojo and Francesca Grima chose as the inspiration for a limited edition watch released in 2016<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

Though the shapes that seemed to enchant Grima were organic, irregular and sinuous, his experiments in geometry for About Time are some of his most successful designs...<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

...Grima sketched Pyramid \u2013 a 3D-triangular-cut aquamarine set on a white gold bracelet echoing the watch face \u2013 on a Carlyle Hotel menu. The bracelet is exquisitely articulated. As he said in 1970: \u201cIf I am told a design of mine is impossible to do, it makes me want more than ever to do it.\u201d<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

\"\"

A substantial table-cut green peridot forms the centerpiece of Clover: a ladies\u2019 pendant watch that is an exercise in symmetry. The textured yellow gold case that frames the peridot could have been made with a brooch setting. Instead, it is suspended from large diamond-shaped textured gold links. The chain is articulated to sit as a pendant but could equally serve as a man\u2019s pocket watch<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

The average price of an About Time timepiece in\u00a01970 was\u00a0\u00a34,000. Today, an About Time original would be north of \u00a320,000.\u00a0It\u00a0is curious that, though Andrew Grima\u2019s designs were so of their time, his masterpieces remain timeless and speak\u00a0to influential\u00a0contemporary collectors such as Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs. But it seems churlish to put a price tag on About Time:\u00a0the\u00a0most\u00a0perfect realization of watchmaking and jewelry design\u00a0in\u00a0unison.<\/div><\/div><\/div> \t<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The unsurpassed About Time series was created when Andrew Grima, one of the greatest jewelry designers of all time, designed 55 watches for Omega.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":154,"featured_media":102163,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":"","spc_primary_category":0},"categories":[109,88],"tags":[873,11],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nFantasy Hours: Andrew Grima\u2019s About Time for Omega - Revolution Watch<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The unsurpassed About Time series was created when Andrew Grima, one of the greatest jewelry designers of all time, designed 55 watches for Omega.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/revolutionwatch.com\/fantasy-hours-andrew-grimas-about-time-for-omega\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Fantasy Hours: Andrew Grima\u2019s About Time for Omega\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The unsurpassed About Time series was created when Andrew Grima, one of the greatest jewelry designers of all time, designed 55 watches for Omega.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/revolutionwatch.com\/fantasy-hours-andrew-grimas-about-time-for-omega\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Revolution Watch\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-06-27T11:00:21+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2024-04-16T23:10:00+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/revolutionwatch.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/01-Andrew-Grima.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1500\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"695\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"James Sherwood\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"James Sherwood\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/revolutionwatch.com\/fantasy-hours-andrew-grimas-about-time-for-omega\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/revolutionwatch.com\/fantasy-hours-andrew-grimas-about-time-for-omega\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"James Sherwood\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/revolutionwatch.com\/#\/schema\/person\/9c4ca49464f865b1e5200289af9a14af\"},\"headline\":\"Fantasy Hours: Andrew Grima\u2019s About Time for Omega\",\"datePublished\":\"2019-06-27T11:00:21+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2024-04-16T23:10:00+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/revolutionwatch.com\/fantasy-hours-andrew-grimas-about-time-for-omega\/\"},\"wordCount\":1306,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/revolutionwatch.com\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/revolutionwatch.com\/fantasy-hours-andrew-grimas-about-time-for-omega\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/revolutionwatch.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/01-Andrew-Grima.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"Andrew Grima\",\"Omega\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Omega\",\"Vintage\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/revolutionwatch.com\/fantasy-hours-andrew-grimas-about-time-for-omega\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/revolutionwatch.com\/fantasy-hours-andrew-grimas-about-time-for-omega\/\",\"name\":\"Fantasy Hours: Andrew Grima\u2019s About Time for Omega - 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