The Modern Dress CodeBy Bhanu Chopra
Nomos is headquartered in Glashütte, Germany and has been an independent brand since its inception just after the fall of the Berlin Wall when Roland Schwertner turned his entrepreneurial spirit to watchmaking. The first collection was released in 1991 and included four models — the Orion, Tangente, Ludwig and Tetra. Each of the four was designed by Bauhaus designer Susanne Günther, who brought the design tenets of the movement into the watches. Each Tangente that followed through the years continued to play with its initial design concept of a modern, simple dress watch and introduced a variety of sizes, colors and complications.
The Nomos Tangente neomatik 39 platinum gray brings its own signature updates to the classic icon. The dial is a creamy, rich white due to the electroplating layer of platinum metal rhodium. The hour and minutes hands are simple, thin and rhodium-plated for a coordinating and understated look.
The very thing that made the original Tangente such a success is still present in this latest model, and that is the masterful use of the available real estate to make a moderately sized watch seem to have a massive dial, thanks to the clean design and the thin case bezel and straight lugs.
Another remarkable thing about the Nomos Tangente neomatik 39 platinum gray is the super slim profile achieved by the new generation automatic movement, the Nomos in-house caliber DUW 3001. The design is ultra-flat to give a slim height of only 6.9mm on the steel caseback version and 7.1mm on the sapphire crystal glass back version.
Additionally, the DUW 3001 has achieved new levels of efficiency, with a friction loss of only 5.8 percent rather than the usual 20 percent for an efficiency of 94.2 percent. The DUW 3001 is equipped with the Nomos-Swing-System, that made Nomos one of the few watchmakers fully independent down to the escapement.
The Tangente is a perennial favorite among dress watches for those an eye for detail and modern aesthetics. The Nomos Tangente neomatik 39 platinum gray includes a version with a steel caseback for the first time, at a lower price point, that can be engraved by the manufacturer for that extra special personal touch. There is also a smaller 35mm version for even greater variety in personal style and preference.
Nomos Glashütte Tangente Neomatik 39 Platinum Gray, Ref 143/144
Movement: Self-winding caliber DUW 3001 automatic movement with NOMOS-Swing-System; 43-hour power reserve
Functions: Hour, minutes and small seconds
Case: 38.5mm; stainless steel with customizable solid steel caseback or sapphire crystal caseback; water resistant to 50m
Dial: Platinum metal, rhodium plated; Arabic numerals and baton markers
Strap: Horween Shell Cordovan black leather; stainless steel folding clasp
Price: USD 3,390 (solid steel caseback) / USD 3,780 (sapphire crystal caseback)