Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Steel with Grand Feu Enamel Dial for Revolution & The Rake

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In 2018, to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the brand, Christine Hutter, CEO of Moritz Grossmann had curated an amazing collection of vintage Moritz Grossmann watches that she paired with timepieces from their current collection to be auctioned off by Christie’s.

Amongst the auction lots was a very interesting and unique Atum 37mm by 9.2mm slim Hommage wristwatch that was paired with a pocket watch with movement number 6126 made by Moritz Grossmann in 1872.

To us, this wristwatch featured one of the most stunning dials ever. The elegance of the ultra-slim Roman numerals, surrounded by the delicately printed chemin-de-fer minute indicator and contrasted by the four diamond-shaped markers at the cardinal points, was wonderful.

It was the most perfect example of Zen reductionist tranquillity we’d seen in recent years. But this hand-fired enamel dial watch was only created in this one unique execution. Or so I thought, until I had the opportunity to speak to Christine Hutter on her visit to Singapore last year.

Remarking on the majesty of this watch, she asked if we might consider collaborating on a version of the timepiece together. Of course, we were humbled and delighted to acquiesce. She pointed out that the Benu Heritage 37mm case, which was launched in April 2018, was exactly the same shape and dimension and could offer us the perfect platform to start.

We soon returned to her very original idea when she founded Moritz Grossmann, which was to forge a link between Saxon watchmaking’s past and future. From the past, we selected a grand feu enamel dial similar to the pièce unique auctioned by Christie’s. But instead of white, we decided on an ivory-coloured dial with black Roman indexes, contrasted by a soft seductive deep purple chemin de fer, which perfectly complements the signature flamed purple colour on her lovely spade-shaped hands.

To perfectly express the idea of ultimate horological tranquility, we decided to omit the seconds hand. This would, after all, be the watch of a flaneur or a boulevardier, an individual for whom time is a luxury, and it would simply not do to allow the banal encroachment of a small seconds indicator.

The case would come from the future and would, specifically, be in stainless steel, the only alloy of this material that can be hand polished to mirror-like perfection. The movement would, of course, be the German silver masterpiece of the Benu 37, which allowed for the unencumbered view of the engraved escape wheel cock. The balance wheel and winder of the movement are now also manufactured in-house, allowing Christine Hutter the dignity of a movement she can call truly in-house.

The end result, the Benu 37 Steel with grand feu enamel dial for Revolution & The Rake, is one of our favourite collaborations, simply because it epitomizes a spirit of total authenticity embodied by Moritz Grossmann and Christine Hutter. And, if I may say so, at 37mm in diameter and 9.7mm in height, rendered as an expression of 19th-century evocative calm, it is the perfect watch for that individual who lives an understated life full of nuanced riches and calm meditational sybaritism.